Every year, seemingly out of nowhere, there is an evening when a light jacket is no longer required on the Vespa, and as dusk falls the still warm air brings a wave of oleander and jasmine. If these were artificial scents they would be too pungent and too sweet, but as it is they…
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Porphyry
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Rome is busy at the moment, and approximately as hot as the surface of the sun. But it doesn’t have to be. With judicious timing at busy spots, and…
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A Podcast about Rome. Part 4: The "Servian" Wall of the Early Republic.Listen now (13 min) | Rome began with a wall. According to legend, on the 21 April 753 BCE Remus stepped over the wall of the Roma Quadrata (literally…
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Rome is very busy at the moment. Except for the occasional mask (FTTP2/N95 are required on all public transport and in the Vatican Museums, though many…
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The excellent Giacomo Boni show dotted across the Parco Archeologico del Colosseo has been extended until 3 July, so I thought I’d take the opportunity…
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And so just like that it’s suddenly May, and Rome feels as normal as it has since before all this began. Once again crowd-dodging is my main…
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Rome was founded, legend says, on the twenty-first of April of the year 753 BCE. I think we can all agree that’s a very specific date for a legend. The…
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