I have a fond recollection of returning from a day at the beach on Massimo’s scooter many, many moons ago (Google tells me it was September 2007) to see the beginning of a free projection of Abel Gance’s 1927 cinematic triumph Napoléon complete with a live orchestra in front of the Arch of Constantine. We parked, found seats, and Napoleon galloped over the Alps across three screens in an audacious bit of early cinematic wizardry. It was wonderful and, as serendipitous cinematic spectacles go, has proven hard to beat: Napoléon, a live orchestra, and the illuminated backdrop of the Arch of Constantine and the Colosseum.
A couple of weeks ago I was reminded of that distant late summer evening when I went to a free open-air screening of Roma Città Aperta, part of Il Cinema in Piazza, an initiative of free public cinema screenings organised by the Fondazione Piccolo America (named for the Cinema America in Trastevere which closed in 1999). The setting was suitably rather less imperial: a blanket on the pavement of piazza San Cosimato in Trastevere, the unforgiving stone still very warm at eleven o’clock in the evening. (There are seats, one just has to be both early and organised for those).
The piazza was full, there was more than a whiff of weed in the air, and my pal and I were definitely raising the average age. None things I minded in the least; anzi. The movie was as glorious and tragic as ever, and so engrossing on the big screen that I (almost) forgot how sore my bum was. I cried twice, I defy you not to cry at Roma Città Aperta, and thought afterwards how extraordinary cinema is. Transporting, immersive, communal, and offering the kind of profound glimpse into the soul of a place that no amount of history alone can do. It puts flesh on the bones.
With this in mind, Rachel Roddy and I will be reprising our Film Jaunt on Sunday 27th July. We will be wandering from shady spot to cool café to shady spot in the torpid quiet of a Roman summer Sunday through a couple of our favourite neighbourhoods which feature in Roman movies we love including Caro Diario, Il Pranzo di Ferragosto, Mamma Roma, Ladri di Biciclette, Lo Chiamavano Jeeg Robot, & C’è Ancora Domani. We’ll chat about these films (and others), and there will be ample and suitably-themed snacking along the way.
Our final destination is a slap-up mostly fishy lunch (dietary requirements can of course be accommodated) in the cool dining room of a timeless Testaccio trattoria where we will channel Il Pranzo di Ferragosto (with Ribolla Galla, but without having to find a fisherman on the Tiber to provide the main course).
We will start at 10am, and everyone can roll home for a snooze in a shady room at about 3.30pm. There are ten spots and the total cost including all food and drink is €180. To book please email info@understandingrome.com. Come, it’ll be a blast!
Saluti from Roma, Agnes
Bel ricordo
Wish I were there!