One of my very favourite things to do is to give somebody (ideally a diminutive nun of an entirely indeterminate age, though this isn’t a deal-breaker) a couple of euros in return for being ushered into an improbable lift, or perhaps up or down a creaking staircase to see something long since hidden. This is the first in a series of such places I shall be writing of here and is to be found at the church of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere.
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