I’ve always loved a train ride. It’s something about the suspension of time: one is going somewhere, in itself an achievement, and is limited in what else can be achieved so I always feel there is a sort of licence to do nothing in particular. Looking out of the window is reward itself. I love the tangle of tracks and the backs of buildings, looking unguarded over all of those—surprisingly extensive—places between places that lurk in the middle of seemingly dense cities as one trundles out of major stations.
In Rome this distinction is particularly acute. There is a poignancy to the crumbling aqueducts cheek by jowl with unprepossessing apartment buildings, washing billowing valiantly from balconies.
In a city which so proudly puts her best face forward it is but a hop, skip and a jump from the Trevi to the tangenziale, the elevated urban highway which bears witness to the ad hoc urban planning of the nineteen-seventies, and that temporal kaleidoscope is somehow fabulously disorienting.
And what soundtrack could possibly better than the gravelly melancholic tones of Paolo Conte? Now in his late eighties and one of the great Italian singer-songwriters amongst much else in a long and prolific career Paolo Conte is responsible (in part) for Azzurro, the great languid paean to the torpor of an Italian summer.
Dir che ti penso
è un controsenso
Perché sei sempre qui, sì
Tra le mie dita
Come la vita
Che in un sorriso vivi
To say that I think of you
Is a contradiction
Because you’re always here, yes
Between my fingers
Like life
Which you live in a smile
Il treno va
Scomparirà
Sulle sue ruote rotonde
Dietro alle nuvole bionde
The train goes
It’ll disappear
On its round wheels
Behind the pale clouds
Io sono qua
Rimango qua
In questa ruggine densa
Come qualcuno pensa a un treno
I’m here
Still here
In this dense rust
As some consider a train
Tu dove vai?
Con quei begli occhi che haiRitornerai?
Me l'hai promesso, lo sai
Where are you going?
With those beautiful eyes of yours
Will you come back?
You promised me, you know
Il treno va
Scomparirà
Dietro alle nuvole bionde
Sulle sue ruote rotonde, ormai
The train goes
It’ll disappear
Behind the pale clouds
On its round wheels, by now
Tu dove vai?
Con quei begli occhi che haiRitornerai?
Me l'hai promesso, lo sai
Where are you going?
With those beautiful eyes of yours
Will you come back?
You promised me, you know
Il treno va
Scomparirà
Sulle sue ruote rotonde
Dietro alle nuvole bionde, ormai
The train goes
It’ll disappear
On its round wheels
Behind the pale clouds, by now
Cara Agnes,
Your newsletters are always a welcome surprise to me in my overcrowded in-box. I especially enjoyed your musings on train trips which always seem somehow magical to me. Thank you, Susan
Love taking the Frecciarossa especially Rome to Venice. Magical journey and a great way to see things. Thank you.