November is upon us. It is Rome’s wettest month. The days are short, and the traffic angry as it lurches over cobbles glittering with the reflections of a thousand headlights on dark afternoons. But then the rain abates, the sky is blue and everything seems eminently possible once again.
Wow, talk about connections! Here is how my last hour was spent in the depths of the internet:
Wake up to texts and photos from my daughter who took a German day trip today. She works for the NFL and is spending two weeks in Frankfurt for the two American football games there. She has a couple of free days and I encouraged her to take an easy day trip, one suggestion was Heidelberg which she chose, the photos she sent are beautiful.
Next, I check email and find your latest posting on Substack…. Of course, another interesting read, and then the mention of Heidelberg! Wow!
But all this reminded me that my knowledge of Germany and of German and HRE history, and in general 17th-19th century European history is sadly lacking. (I had to Google the Palatinate, embarrassed to say) Next spring, after Italy, I plan to venture into southern Germany for the first time since a day trip in 1984. I better read up!
So off I went, in my armchair, researching the library of Heidelberg, the Palatinate anthology, and the 16th century journey of the manuscripts to the Vatican. Here’s one website telling the story:
Amidst the sad story of the 18th century Palatinate refugees, is another stretch of a connection for me; the part about Queen Anne being kind to them but with a motive. I just last night began watching a lecture series on the Tudor and Stuart eras (a Great Courses series free with Amazon Prime). I’m very familiar with pre-Tudors and Tudor history but sorely lacking beyond that. And the introductory lecture indicates that he will cover the period up to the death of Queen Anne, who I know nothing about. Excited to continue watching this engaging professor, he’s almost as engaging as you, Agnes! It’s called History of England from the Tudors to the Stuarts.
Speaking of the sad story of the 18th c. Palatinate people, is it me or does it conjure extremely uncomfortable feelings of current world events???
Oh gosh, I must stop 😢
In the end, I’m really glad you don’t have to rely on Hope and Fortune as it seems to fail us throughout the millennia!
Loved seeing the photo of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere... my patron saint. The statute of her on the altar there is stunning. Can’t wait till my next visit. Thanks for the tip on Palazzo Altemps!
Discovered the Altemps in 2005, 2nd visit to Rome (first in 1959), and go back each time, take the same pictures each time, and always of my favorite Erinni.
As always Agnes your writings are wonderfully thought provoking.
I am reminded of a Ludovisi sculpture, of just a head on its side on a plinth, from the garden of Sallust that I will never forget, at the Altemps. (Just tried to include a photo but failed!).
Your accountant’s building lobby however, I would avoid, I find cold and alienating, no doubt a deliberate effect.
John and I always look forward to your posts! John and Ellie Picone - Sydney.
I love your lobby photo, it’s just the thing when you enter an office building. Why on earth do they have a copy of that particular piece? It is one of my favorites as is Pal Altemps. Great post.
My one to date visit to Rome was in November, November 2015. It was actually atypically clear and blue skies except for one day, whereupon I found myself in the not-very-international-tourist-friendly Museum of the City of Rome. The lack of signs in English was a challenge but I enjoyed it immensely all the same.
Wow, talk about connections! Here is how my last hour was spent in the depths of the internet:
Wake up to texts and photos from my daughter who took a German day trip today. She works for the NFL and is spending two weeks in Frankfurt for the two American football games there. She has a couple of free days and I encouraged her to take an easy day trip, one suggestion was Heidelberg which she chose, the photos she sent are beautiful.
Next, I check email and find your latest posting on Substack…. Of course, another interesting read, and then the mention of Heidelberg! Wow!
But all this reminded me that my knowledge of Germany and of German and HRE history, and in general 17th-19th century European history is sadly lacking. (I had to Google the Palatinate, embarrassed to say) Next spring, after Italy, I plan to venture into southern Germany for the first time since a day trip in 1984. I better read up!
So off I went, in my armchair, researching the library of Heidelberg, the Palatinate anthology, and the 16th century journey of the manuscripts to the Vatican. Here’s one website telling the story:
https://digi.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/en/bpd/bibliotheca_palatina/geschichte.html
Fascinating!
Then I wanted to better understand the Palatinate and found this article and a connection to the U.S.
https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/the-palatine-germans.htm
Amidst the sad story of the 18th century Palatinate refugees, is another stretch of a connection for me; the part about Queen Anne being kind to them but with a motive. I just last night began watching a lecture series on the Tudor and Stuart eras (a Great Courses series free with Amazon Prime). I’m very familiar with pre-Tudors and Tudor history but sorely lacking beyond that. And the introductory lecture indicates that he will cover the period up to the death of Queen Anne, who I know nothing about. Excited to continue watching this engaging professor, he’s almost as engaging as you, Agnes! It’s called History of England from the Tudors to the Stuarts.
Speaking of the sad story of the 18th c. Palatinate people, is it me or does it conjure extremely uncomfortable feelings of current world events???
Oh gosh, I must stop 😢
In the end, I’m really glad you don’t have to rely on Hope and Fortune as it seems to fail us throughout the millennia!
An intriguing rabbit hole! Thanks!
Loved seeing the photo of Santa Cecilia in Trastevere... my patron saint. The statute of her on the altar there is stunning. Can’t wait till my next visit. Thanks for the tip on Palazzo Altemps!
I love that lobby and I love Palazzo Altemps. Thank you, Agnes!
I didn’t know that a visit to the accountant could be uplifting!
Discovered the Altemps in 2005, 2nd visit to Rome (first in 1959), and go back each time, take the same pictures each time, and always of my favorite Erinni.
As always Agnes your writings are wonderfully thought provoking.
I am reminded of a Ludovisi sculpture, of just a head on its side on a plinth, from the garden of Sallust that I will never forget, at the Altemps. (Just tried to include a photo but failed!).
Your accountant’s building lobby however, I would avoid, I find cold and alienating, no doubt a deliberate effect.
John and I always look forward to your posts! John and Ellie Picone - Sydney.
thanks Ellie! Love to you both x
Love this post, Agnes!
thanks Anne!
Taking note. I shall soon be in need of a good commercialista...
I love your lobby photo, it’s just the thing when you enter an office building. Why on earth do they have a copy of that particular piece? It is one of my favorites as is Pal Altemps. Great post.
No idea why, I expect it was knocking about!
My one to date visit to Rome was in November, November 2015. It was actually atypically clear and blue skies except for one day, whereupon I found myself in the not-very-international-tourist-friendly Museum of the City of Rome. The lack of signs in English was a challenge but I enjoyed it immensely all the same.